Outlined below are our Breeder Requirements, the process for registering, fees, and other information that you will need. Please read through everything carefully, our hope is that you will enjoy many years as a member in good standing with the ALCA. (All requirements for membership have an asterisk, anything else is a recommendation.)
Before reading further, there are 3 basic requirements you need to know about before starting this process.
- You must own at least one, intact, registered Australian Labradoodle to apply for membership.
- Your ALCA Breeder Membership will not be processed until you have a registered ALD, so please do both applications at the same time.
- All ALDs must be bred to ALDs.
- All ALCA Breeders must have an accessible website for their program.
So you are now ready to register your dog(s). What are the requirements?
First of all, there are dogs that are NOT eligible to be registered with the ALCA, those include:
- First or Second Generation, also known as F1, F2, or F2B
- Merle-coated Labradoodles
- A Labradoodle with a new infusion of ANY breed
- Wheaton Infusions, or "Cobberdogs"
After determining that your dog can be registered, here are the next steps:
*1) Choose your Breeding Kennel Name. As you make your decision on what to name your program, check the ALCA Breeder's list. You may not have a Kennel name that is to be confused with another kennel, such as Climbing Vine Australian Labradoodles if another breeder uses the kennel name Climbing Vine Labradoodles. You must use another name such as Hanging Vine Labradoodles. Acceptable names may contain a portion of another breeders kennel name, but may not be so similar as to confuse the public. Example: Lake Erie, Lakewood, Green Lake, while having the "lake" in the names are different enough to be fully distinguishable from one another.
*2) Go to the ALCA website, click on the Applications tab and choose New Breeder/Kennel Name application, that fee is $70.00 USD. Fill the application out and submit that plus fee.
*3) All ALD breeding stock must be registered. To do so, go to the "Applications" tab on our website, choose Dog Registration, fill out one for each dog being registered, and submit that form. The fee is $30.00 USD per dog. *Important info on your Breeding Dog's Name: That must include the Whelping Breeder's Kennel Name as the prefix, ie: "Climbing Vine Cottage's Sparky.
*4) Go to the "Links" tab, open, read, sign and submit the Code of Ethics.
*5) Scan and email the following documents to the ALCA Registrar at email@example.com:
- A signed pedigree for your dog(s) from the original owner. If the dog is already registered with the ALCA, submit a Transfer of Ownership form along with the $10 Transfer fee.
- Note, ALCA is not affiliated with the ALAA or WALA.
- If your dog came from an ALCA Breeder Member, you will have received a Litter Registration paper at the time of purchase. You must have this filled out and signed by the whelping breeder and yourself, and emailed to the Registrar.
- In addition, your dog(s) must have passed the following required tests, and those passing test results must be submitted to the Registrar.
Those health tests include:
For all intact dogs registered after July 1, 2019:
You must agree that DNA Parentage will be obtained by you for any dual sired litter and if asked to, for any breeding dog that a question of parentage has arisen.
For all dogs registered after February 1, 2019:
Hip and Elbow Testing (OFA, eVet Diagnostics, PennHIP, or AVA accepted)
OFA Patellar Luxation (Form available on OFA website @ https://www.ofa.org/veterinarian/application-forms )
OFA Congenital Cardiac (Form available on OFA website @ https://www.ofa.org/veterinarian/application-forms )
Progressive Retinal Atrophy, Progressive Rod-Cone Degeneration (prcd/PRA)
CERF - OFA
Von Willebrand Disease
Along with health testing you must include:
- A copy of your puppy sale contract and guarantee, which includes a 24-month (minimum) health warranty.
- A copy of your puppy care instructions that you provide to puppy families
- *Important! All of the health tests must be taken and passed BEFORE the breeding of any dog.
- Once all the applications, fees, pedigrees, and paperwork are submitted, the Registrar will contact you with your official welcome to the ALCA!
- You are now a Breeder Member! Your dog(s) are registered, your website is up and running with your ALCA logo, and you are planning your first litter. Congratulations! But where do you go from here?
ALCA Litter Requirements
- *Breeders must strictly adhere to the grading system established by the ALCA.
- *All ALDs must be bred to ALDs.
- *Anyone providing stud service must demonstrate the knowledge to do so.
Recommendations: for protection of a stud dog -when possible, a male dog should have a natural breeding prior to AI.
ALCA recommends inbreeding co-efficient to be less than 7%. *(A study of Standard Poodles discovered that dogs with a COI of less than 6.25% lived on average four years longer than those with COIs over 25%.) *http://www.dogbreedhealth.com/a-beginners-guide-to-coi/
Suggested breeding age: Dams under 18" are not bred before 13 months of age, over 18" are not bred before 16 months of age.
- *The Dam of the litter must be previously registered with the ALCA.
- *The Sire of the litter does not need to be registered, but all health clearances must be
submitted to the Registrar, and the Sire must meet pedigree requirements for ALCA
- * Every litter is required to be registered within 30 days of whelp date. Late registration will
incur a late fee of $20.00. Go to "Application" tab, fill out Litter Registration and submit that
with your payment.
- *ALCA litter registration number must be displayed next to the photo of your litter as soon as
you receive the number from the Registrar.
- *If you don't advertise your litters on your site, you must still list the litter registration number
on your "Puppy" page.
- *The individual puppy’s registration paper must be provided to the new family.
ALCA requires that spay/neuter all pups that are sold as companion family members, allowing for an exception where the breeder agrees to work under contract with the pet buyer to have a time limit of 6 months of age for spay/neuter and documentation provided by the vet surgeon confirming that the pet has been spay/neutered within the time frame allowed under contract. Upon receipt of such documentation, the breeder will then provide the pet owner with documents, including pedigree and registration form.
ALCA has made the early spay/neuter requirement as a necessary step to provide for the firm future of the Australian Labradoodle. It is also in the interest of each breeder member to protect their breeding program. By requiring that all pets are spay/neutered prior to breeding age, we eliminate the risk of unwanted pregnancies and unwanted and unregistered offspring.
. In the event puppy is not spay/neutered prior to leaving the breeder's facility, the breeder must provide a contract stating the spay or neuter surgery must be completed no later than the pet reaching six months of age. As part of the contract, the breeder will furnish documents for verification of spay/neuter. This confirmation form becomes a part of your contract and is available by request - just send an email to firstname.lastname@example.org and we will promptly get this to you. The new owner must give the vet providing the spay/neuter surgery the confirmation form which verifies the date of surgery. This form must be returned to the breeder by the vet, at which time the breeder will furnish the new owner with the transfer of ownership documents and pedigree for their records. Pet puppies may not be registered by the new owner until such time as the spay/neuter takes place and is documented. The breeder must maintain the signed form in their records and submit to ALCA upon request.
There are certain items you need to have displayed on your site. Breeder member sites are regularly monitored to ensure compliance. This helps us all contribute to the high standards of excellence to which we hold our breeders, and our club.
-*All photos shown on your website must belong to you, or you must have written permission
from the owner to display the photo on your website with acknowledgment such as "photo
courtesy of Long Ago Labradoodles".
- *All breeding dogs must be pictured on your site with their registered name in full, including
whelping breeder's prefix, along with the ALCA registration number or the ALCA Certified
Australian Labradoodle logo provided for qualifying dogs. Any dog not eligible for ALCA
registration must show "Does not qualify for registration due to____"; clearly stating the reason
on your site.
- *If a breeding dog is not old enough to have received and passed the required health testing,
and therefore is not yet registered, you must display "Registration pending upon completion
and passing of health testing" next to the dog's photo.
- *All litters should be pictured, along with their litter registration number, or "ALCA registration
pending”. Even if the litters are not pictured on your site, the registration numbers must be
listed on your "Puppy" page as soon as they are received from the Registrar.
- *Only the current year's ALCA logo must be displayed; no logos from previous years
can remain on your site. Any outdated logos must be removed as soon as the current one
The Board of Directors warmly welcomes you! If you have questions for us at any time, please see the Board Members’ page for contact information. We are glad to help and hope you enjoy your association with the Australian Labradoodle Club of America.
- *The Dam of the litter must be previously registered with the ALCA.
- * The Sire of the litter does not need to be registered, but all health clearances must be submitted to the Registrar, and the Sire must meet pedigree requirements for ALCA registration.
- * Every litter is required to be registered within 30 days of whelp date. Late registration will incur a late fee of $20.00. Go to the "Application" tab, fill out Litter Registration and submit that with your payment.
- *the ALCA litter registration number must be displayed next to the photo of your litter as soon as you receive the number from the Registrar.
- *If you don't advertise your litters on your site, you must still list the litter registration number on your "Puppy" page.
- *The individual puppy’s registration paper must be provided to the new family.
As established by Tegan Park and Rutland Manor Breeding & Research Centers of Australia and adopted by the Australian Labradoodle Club of America 2005 revised 2007.
Temperament and Soundness are the two KEY elements in a good family companion; they must not be sacrificed for any reason.
General Appearance: The Australian Labradoodle should be athletic and graceful, yet compact with substance and medium boning. Joyful and energetic when free, soft and quiet when handled. They should approach people in a happy friendly manner with eye to eye contact. Keen to learn and easy to train. They have a free flowing wavy or curly coat that does not shed and is possibly non-allergenic.
Size: Sizes are still "somewhat inconsistent" with no definition between male and female at this time. Accurate prediction of size, even by an experienced breeder, is not expected at this time. Size is measured to the top of the shoulder blades (withers) while standing squarely on a level surface.
Much care is needed when breeding both the large and small dogs. Large dogs can suffer from rapid growth that can lead to structural problems. Soundness is of utmost importance. Over size is a major fault. Care must be taken to keep the miniature Australian Labradoodle a solid athletic robust dog. The dwarfing of dogs can lead to many genetic and temperament disorders. Minimum size attention is of the utmost importance to maintain a healthy little dog. Most Australian Labradoodles will weigh more than their height reflects.
STANDARD: 21" TO 24" The "Ideal" size for a standard female is 21 to 23 inches and for a male 22 to 24 inches. Weight range tends to be 50 to 65 pounds.
MEDIUM: 17" TO 20" The "Ideal" size for a medium female is 17 to 19 inches and for a male 19 to 20 inches. Weight range tends to be 30 to 40 pounds.
MINIATURE: 14"TO 16" The "Ideal" size for a miniature is 14 to 16 inches with no correlation between height and sex of the miniature Australian Labradoodle. Weight range tends to be 16 to 25 pounds.
Body: Height (to wither) to length (from sternum to point of buttock) should appear square and compact. Shoulders should have good angulation with firm elbows held close to the rib cage. Hindquarters should be of medium angulation with short strong hocks. Top line should remain level with strong loin and level croup. Flanks should rise up from a brisket set just below the elbows, but should not be excessively deep. Ribs should be well sprung but not barreled. Overall, the dog should appear square, be balanced, athletic and with good muscling.
Movement: When trotting should be purposeful, strong and elastic, with good reach and drive, giving the appearance of "going somewhere". When happy, relaxed or at play will prance and skim the ground lightly. Excessive tightness in the hips will produce a stilted action and is considered a fault.
Tail: Set relatively high and preferred to be carried in a saber, can be carried below the topline or "gaily" above. Curled possum type tails are undesirable.
Head: Sculptured, broad, well defined eyebrows, medium stop, eyes set well apart, nose to stop slightly longer than stop to occiput. Foreface shorter than skull. The head should be clean and chiseled and fully coated as on the body, legs and tail. The Muzzle is measured from the tip of the nose to the stop. The skull is measured from the occiput to the stop and does not include the muzzle.
Ears: Set moderately flat against the head, base should be level with the eye. Leather should be of medium thickness and when gently drawn forward should reach the top canine tooth. Ear leather reaching beyond the tip of nose is considered a severe fault. Ear canals should be free of excessive hair, and not thick and bulbous. When inquisitive and alert the ear set should rise to the top of the head. Thick/heavy ear leather is a fault.
Eyes: "Slightly" round, large and expressive, always offering eye to eye contact when engaged in activity with a human. Protruding or sunken eyes are a fault. Watery or tearful eyes are a fault. Wide round or narrow almond shaped eyes are considered a fault.
Eye Color: Eye color should complement and blend with the face color. Black, Blue, Red, Dark Chocolate and Silver dogs must have dark brown eyes. All shades of Cafe', Milk Chocolate, Gold/Apricot, Cream and Chalk should have dark hazel to brown eyes if they have black pigment. Caramel and dogs with rose pigment may have either dark eyes or "ghost" eyes. Ghost is a hazel color range much the same as it is in humans. Flecking with different shades of hazel with green and a blue/green make this eye color quite unique. Ghost eyes must always remain soft in appearance. Cold staring expressionless appearance in all eye colors is a severe fault.
Teeth: Scissor bite only is acceptable, being neither undershot nor overshot. Miniatures must not have crowding teeth.
Nose: Large square and fleshy. Pigment: Black or Rose. Pigment should be strong. Black pigment dogs must have dark brown eyes. Pink spots or patches on nose, lips, eye rims or pads are a fault. Dogs with rose pigment can have dark hazel, brown or ghost eyes. Eye rims should be rose as should nose, lips and pads. Pink spots or patches are a severe fault. Rose should be a rich liver color.
Neck: The firm, well muscled neck should be moderately long, slightly arched and flow into the well angled shoulders with no appearance of abruptness. The neck should not be coarse nor stumpy and should lend an air of elegance to the dog. A short thick neck is a fault.
Color: Any solid color including Cafe' and Silver is preferred. Minimal white on the chest and toes is acceptable. Light chalky coarse hairs (kemp) sprinkled through a dark coat is permissible but very undesirable. Parti (patched) and Phantoms, though undesirable, are considered an acceptable color. Parti can be any color (except Phantom) with white on face, head and/or body. Phantoms are any shading or two tone coloration such as a Black dog with lower legs showing a soft toning of silver or gold or a dog born dark with a golden shading at the roots or a slight brindling effect. True pure solid colors with the exception of Silver and Cafe' are highly prized and are the ideal for the Australian Labradoodle. It is normal that all colors may show bleaching and discoloration over the top coat. This is called sunning and is quite expected and acceptable, as the Australian Labradoodle is an active dog and often a service dog that enjoys the outdoors. Weather bleaching or sunning must not be penalized.
The Breed Standard of Excellence colors are:
Apricot/Gold, Red, Black, Silver and Blue - must have black pigment
Caramel, Chocolate, Cafe', Parchment and Lavender - must have rose pigment
Chalk (appears white but when compared to a true white it is a chalky white) - may have rose or black pigment
Cream and Apricot Cream (all shades and combinations of cream shades are acceptable) - may have rose or black pigment
Caramel: A rich Gold/Apricot very much the color of its namesake - caramel through to a deep red - must have rose pigment.
Red: A solid, even, rich red color which should have no sprinkling of other colored fibers throughout the coat. A true Red must not be lighter at the roots than at the tips of the coat. Red can fade somewhat with age, and senior dogs showing paling of coat should not be penalized.
Apricot/Gold: The color of a ripe apricot on the inside. A true Apricot must not be lighter at the roots than at the tips of the coat. It can come in varying shades and may fade as the dog grows older. Senior dogs should not be penalized for paling of coat color.
Blue: A dark to medium smoky Blue. Blue also belongs to the Rare Color Group. Blue dogs are born Black but will have Blue skin and undertonings at a young age. Any other color throughout the Blue is undesirable.
Silver: Born Black but will have more of a grey skin and will develop individual silver fibers at a young age. Silver dogs can take up to 3 years to color out and become a beautiful smoky grey through to a light iridescent platinum and varying shades in between at adulthood. Uneven layering of color in the silver is normal.
Chocolate: Dark and rich, born almost Black, they maintain a dark chocolate throughout their lifetime. Color should be even. Any other color throughout the Chocolate is highly undesirable. Chocolate belongs to the Rare Color Group.
Cafe': Born Milk Chocolate of varying shades, and have the same gene as the silver dogs, often taking up to 3 years to fully color out to multi shades of chocolate, silvery chocolate and silver throughout. When given plenty of time in the sunshine, they develop stunning highlights.
Lavender: A Definite, even smoky lavender chocolate, giving almost pink/lilac appearance. Lavender dogs are born Chocolate and can be difficult to distinguish at a young age. Any other color throughout the Lavender is highly undesirable. True Lavender belongs to the Rare Color Group.
Parchment: Born Milk Chocolate, will pale to a smoky creamy beige. Paling usually starts from an early age often as early as 6 weeks. As adults they can be mistaken for dark smoky Cream from a distance. Parchment belongs to the Rare Color Group.
COAT: Coat types are also still very sporadic with many dogs showing a combination of multiple types. As the genetic values stabilize, we hope the "Ideal" coats are as follows:
Fleece: Length is usually around 5 inches long. The Fleece coat texture should be light and silky quite similar to that of an Angora goat. Appearing "to contain a silky lanolin", the fleece coat can be from loosely waved giving an almost straight appearance to deeply waved. Kemp is often found around the eyes and topline. The absence of kemp is highly prized. Fleece coats rarely if ever shed. A slight shedding may occur and may be determined to the degree of wavy / curly. The less curly, the more chance of slight shedding. During the age of 8-12 months, during the adolescent/maturing time you will need to groom your fleece every week. After this "transition" period, the coat will settle down and maintenance will return to normal, requiring a comb out every 3-4 weeks. The fleece coat has been found to be allergy friendly.
Wool: Coats are more dense to the feel like a sheep's wool. The "Ideal" wool coat should "hang" in loose hollow spirals. Most wool coats are still exhibiting a good texture but take the appearance of a Spring not a Spiral. The sprung wool coat is not desirable. A thick (dense) coat is also not desirable. The Australian Labradoodle has a single coat. Both the Fleece and the Wool coat should naturally grow in "staples" and be of a soft texture. Both the "Ideal" Fleece and Wool coats spin successfully. Hair coats (Hair texture that shed) is a fault and are undesirable. It is extremely rare for a wool coat to shed, and is the preferred coat type for families with severe allergies. To keep the wool coat long and flowing will require more maintenance. The wool coat looks beautiful cut shorter and is very easy to maintain. Grooming and a trim or clip three or four times a year is all that is required to keep the short wool coat looking great.
Originally, Labradoodles were bred using only two breeds - Labrador Retriever and Poodle. This type of breeding is still being done today by many people.
- F-1 = A first generation Labradoodle created by breeding a Labrador Retriever and a Poodle.
- F-1b = A F-1 bred back to a poodle.
- F-2 = A first generation Labradoodle bred back to another first generation Labradoodle.
many years ago, breeders in Australia, Tegan Park Breeding and Research Centre and Rutland Manor Breeding and Research Centre were trying to consistently produce allergy friendly dogs using this formula. They believed that working with only two breeds was too limiting and began infusing other breeds into the recipe. Slowly, through careful breeding and a keen eye for mutations of the genes that would produce the desired results, the centers began to have consistent success using up to six different breeds. Angela Cunningham of Tegan Park and Beverley Manors of Rutland Manor are the co-founders of the Australian Labradoodle. Together they have built a breed type that has taken the world by storm.
The name Labradoodle was retained because the foundation is and will always be the Labrador and Poodle. But, in order to differentiate between lab/poodle cross breeds and the dogs that were developed by the aforementioned breeding centers in Australia, the term Australian Labradoodle is now being used.
The Australian Labradoodle Club of America is dedicated to preserving and continuing the work that was done by the founders of the breed. We are focused on the development of the Australian Labradoodle and the careful infusion of new bloodlines to maintain the look, temperament and allergy friendly traits that make these dogs so special.